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Portugal to Spain

Over the last week we have had a leisurely jaunt from the end of our Camino walk at Logrono down through Portugal and into Spain. The national park at the north end of Portugal was our first stop and very attractive. By staying off the “freeway” system we have gone through many villages  … And saved money.

We loved driving along the Douro valley toward Porto.  The terraced grape vines on steep hills with the river below is spectacular. Lisbon too is a vibrant city. We attended the Story of Lisbon exhibition which gave us a good introduction to the city.  Lisbon celebrates its colonial past but is also a modern city looking to the future

We also explored the impression the Romans left in this part of the country. The ruins at Evora, Badajoz and Merida are just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to Roman influence. 

Next, we are going to look more closely at the impact of the Moors in this area.

   
     
  
 

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Some more Camino reflections on day three and day four

 
1. Last night on the way from the supermarket we stopped in at a church as the choir was practising. It was amazingly professional and would be the envy of any church.

2. Later we were speaking with a young polish couple. We said that we were Christians and were spending a lot of the time praying for friends and family. The young lady’s eyes lit up and asked if we could pray for her brother too because he had some serious issues to deal with. Then she added that she would like prayer for them as a couple.

3. This morning as we leaving Puente la Riena at 6:30am a group of about 10 men were huddled around a doorway. Cynically I said that they were waiting for the tavern to open. As we got closer we realised that one of the men held a large crucifix. As we got close one man rang a bell and they walked solemnly up the street towards the bridge with us not far behind. At the bridge they rang the bell and started singing. It was amazingly beautiful. I have no idea what the words were but I hope that they were words of faith and prayers for the town

4. Then this morning as our feet were getting tired we looked for a coffee shop but found none open. There was a stone wall fence that we sat on. A lady over the road was sweeping her garage out. She motioned us over and gave us a chair to sit on. She was cooking some delicious meatballs in the garage – as you do. She came over and gave us each one. When we left she wished us a “Buen Camino”. Real hospitality!
   
 

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Prayers and Rainbows: Camino day 3

Day 3.We stayed at a very friendly albergue (which I have been spelling incorrectly)  in Zariquiegui. Breakfast consisted of a sweet roll, black coffee and orange juice. By 7am we were on the road to Puente La Riena via Alto del Perdon a peak which was quite a steep climb and an even steeper and rockier descent. At the top of the ridge is a line of wind turbines which would have excited Don Quixote.

We had committed ourselves to pray for friends and family on this walk (more than usual) and various issues that
have been exercising our minds. As we arrived at the top of the hill, wind and a rain squall hit us. However, in the midst of that we saw a magnificent rainbow. It was a reminder of a covenant God who keeps his promises. It was an incredibly uplifting moment and inspired our prayers.
We went through a number of small villages but sadly they all their churches are closed. I like to go in and pray for the people that attend – as well as have a sticky beak around. Now it is time to find an albergue and then find the pilgrims bridge I first encountered in 2006. 

  

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Taking Opportunities

Being a church-visitor-aholic I have become very aware of the manner in which famous and historic churches treat visitors. For some it it is simply a money making exercise. Other churches see visitors as a chore and there are those who see visitors as their contribution to the local tourist economy.

Parallel to these observations is another. Thousands of bemused Japanese and Chinese tourists visit these places extensively – I was tempted to write “religiously”. Most of these visitors know little of what the stories in the windows mean, why there are altars and crosses, who the statues represent and what the other paraphernalia such as baptismal fonts, really mean.

So today in Lyon I was greatly encouraged. At the unusual Basilique Notre Dame de Fourviere, perched on a hill overlooking Lyon there were gospel pamphlets for Chinese tourists. Down the hill at Lyon Cathedral there was a large painting representing an open book quoting John 3:16. This could not be missed as you walked in. My schoolboy French served me well. I even heard a young couple quoting it aloud and being mesmerised by it.

I was encouraged because these two churches saw gospel opportunities and did not let them slip. 

 

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The Reformation Relics

Being a reader of church history it has been fascinating to observe all the references to the Reformation on our current trip. To name just a few:

  • In the centre of Prague is a huge monument to Jan Hus the early reformer
  • Then in Konstanz Germany there is a museum to Hus
  • In Zurich there are references to Zwingli and a statue
  • Luther is mentioned in many places in Germany and has street names and statues in his honour. There is a huge monument to him in Worms
  • And of course there is the Reformation Wall in Geneva
  • There was even a wall built in St Gallen to separate the abbey from the town because the town had become Protestant. 

Yet I have this uneasy sense that these, for most, are just bygone relics of history that sit alongside dead kings and local luminaries.

I raise this because the Reformation was a return to Biblical basics – it was a return to the primacy and inerrancy of Scripture. These are truths that are just as necessary today as they were 600 years ago. The message of these relics needs to be reenlivened (have I made up a word?). It would be a pity if these relics lost their meaning.

   
   

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Malbork

In the C13th the Teutonic Knights set up what was to become one of the largest castles in the world. When they got too big for their boots the Polish kings made it their headquarters and later still the Prussians took it over. It was heavily damaged in WW2 in fighting between the Germans and Russians. Today, however, it is a World Heritage site and is being restored beautifully. The Visitors’ Centre, maps and audio guide make the  visit very enlightening. The tempestuous and varied history of the site is well presented. My one quibble would be that the museum superintendents tend to patrol around like prison guards. A few lessons on PR wouldn’t go astray. I realise they have a treasure to protect but this can be done in a far more positive way.

   
    
 

  

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Crossing the Channel

Some people quote the adage,”It’s not the destination but the journey.”  Well some journeys go horribly wrong. It happened to us on Thursday. We packed up our tent at a camp just outside Dover so as to get to the ferry in time as well as return the hire car. The lady at Budget had given me clear instructions on how to get the car to the right level of the car park. We entered Eastern docks headed to the car park only to find it blocked off. Traveling further we passed an unattended French customs booth (in the UK) and found that all lanes led to ferries. Panic set in. I stopped a hiviz vest worker and he suggested a route. That seemed to get us into further relentless one way lorry traffic. Finally after asking about 6 different people at 6 different points I got the car to the car park which turned out to be just a few metres from the original entrance. My wife was most surprised that I had asked for directions ( she calculates) a dozen times.

THEN after a smooth and eventless Channel crossing, we met our Peugeot rep. He passed on the car after explaining its bells and whistles. He did add that it had very little fuel so the first thing we should do is buy some diesel. So using the GPS we asked it to take us the nearest petrol station. We faithfully followed its directions onto the freeway. “Take the next exit.” Problem. It’s is fenced off with a high security fence and razor wire. The further we travel the fences continue, left and right. Police patrol every few hundred metres. Next problem, the only place that this road goes is onto the ferries and I find myself in lane marked for “trucks only!” I stop, surprise and shock my wife again, and ask two non English speaking French policemen how I get out of this mess. They wave me towards the open jaws of the ferries. Finally I see a black man in a hiviz vest. Is he an escapee from an illegal camp or the real deal. He shows me where I can do an illegal turn and pretend to be a lorry leaving a ferry. It took about half an hour but I think the morning took years off my life I can little afford.

On this occasion I was quite happy to forget about the journey and just reach the destination.

  

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Going to Russia

When I was about 12 I was an unstoppable letter writer. I wrote to aircraft companies for pictures of planes but I also wrote to countries asking what it was like to live there. One such letter was sent to the, then, Soviet Union. It obviously ended up on the desk at the tourist bureau because a month or so later I received a pile of travel pamphlets from the Soviet Union. Two items particularly struck me: the Trans Siberia Railroad and, what was then, Leningrad. Well finally I am on my way to to one: St Petersburg. The name change itself reminds us how much the world has changed in those 53 years. 

Thursday 24th of September. Hetty and I are on the Princess Maria waiting to head to Russia!

We have now been in St Petersburg for three days. It is an amazing city of contrasts: wealth and poverty, old Ladas and brand new Range Rovers, smartly dressed people and the poor.

Highlights: the Hermitage Museum, The Peter Paul fortress, the Museum of Political History, the Church on the Spilled Blood and much much more.

   
    
    
    
 

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When I woke up this morning …

This morning I woke up bright eyed and bushy tailed at 1:30am. Being awake I did the Facebook thing, contacted nearest and dearest and then forced myself back to sleep. It will take time to get used to this 7 hour time shift.

When I woke up the second time, Hetty and I had breakfast and headed off to a local museum. We followed this with a visit to an intriguing island – Suomenlinna or Sveaborg. It is essentially a giant fortress originally built by the Swedes in the 1700s in their battles with the Russians. From 1808 to 1918 it was under Russian control. In 1918 the Fiins rebelled and took it back. Today it has been decommissioned and the island is a haven for artisans – glass blowers and the like.

The church on the island is particularly interesting as its fence is made of “retired cannons” – a bit like turning swords into ploughshares.

    
We have finally made some sense of the Helsinki transport system. Not only are the trams painted like Melbournes rattlers their inter city trains are run by VR!

Sibelius is a highly regarded Finnish composer. We were able to get to see his memorial in a park to the north west of the city. When we arrived there was a bus load of Japanese tourists. Note to self, I must learn “All aboard” in Japanese. When they left I was able to get few photos of this fascinating piece of art.

 

the pipes are meant to resemble organ pipes

  
 

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Stay Calm

Saturday: 

Our holiday has started … but we are stressed already. Our original flight to Sydney was delayed meaning we would miss all our connecting flights. So we were changed to another Sydney flight. Then at the last moment we were changed to a direct Singapore flight. We had to rush through customs because it was going to leave in 30 minutes. Arriving at the boarding gate, after going to the wrong one, we find our new flight delayed by 2 hours due to a tyre change.

In the whole scheme of things with all the refugees in the world -we can’t complain , and a plane with a better tyre can’t be bad thing.

Later Saturday:

After a 3 hour delay we finally got on our plane and arrived safely in Singapore. The warm fragrant air is striking as the plane doors open. Singapore airport is the revolving door of the world. People from all over the world coming in and going on to their next destination.

Early Sunday Morning:

We are in an aluminium tube travelling at 38,000 feet at about 855 kms per hour over Russia. There are still about 2000 kms and 3 hours to go before we get off in Helsinki.

  
  
My body is telling me it is 10:30 in the morning. But the pitch black outside the plane and my weary eyes tells me time has changed.

Once we arrived in foggy Helsinki, being Sunday, we looked for a worship service to attend. A few people had told me about a church built into a rock. So we went there – Temppeliaukio Church, a Lutheran church. We didn’t understand a word but the music was sublime. We took  an order of worship and asked one of the stewards what the Bible passages were. We promised to read them later … in English.

  

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